Do you need a solid gallery hanging system, but you are short on money? In this DIY tutorial, you can build one for less than half the cost of a professional art gallery hanging system.
You just need to be willing to invest some extra time to put the raw materials together to DIY (do it yourself).
A gallery hanging system is the best way to display art because it’s flexible. You can change spacing, height and even quantity of artworks quickly without perforating a wall with holes. I needed to hang art on two walls in a coffee shop and calculated that a professional system employing a molding trim rail would cost about $260.
Inspired by the design, but deterred by the expense, I decided to “bootstrap” and make a system. For my installation, material cost was only $116.58, not including paint for the rail and wood putty for filling holes.
*The hooks are one of the biggest costs of the pro system and with good reason; they are ingenious! The professional hooks adjust easily with the push of a button, sliding up and down the hanging wire, locking in place when the button is released. My DIY solution: terminal lugs from the electrical supply section of the hardware store! A set screw locks the lug to the wire rope. I even bent the tabs to form hooks. It takes a bit more time to hang your art with these, but they are solid and a fraction the cost.
Here’s the DIY art gallery hanging system recipe:
- Pine “bed” molding for rails
- 1/16” wire rope
- Aluminum grommets for 1/16” wire
- Brass corner braces for rail hooks
- Small copper terminal lugs for art hooks
- Paint and wood putty for trim
- 6 penny 2” finish nails and 2” screws for trim
- Here’s the method, in brief:
1. Prepare trim rail: Mark your walls where you want the rails to be. After cutting your molding to desired length, pre-paint to speed installation. You can fill nail holes with putty afterwards.
2. Install molding rail: With finish nails, counter sinking the nail heads. Then, pre-drill holes through the rail into the wall studs and secure with 2” screws so the rail will bear weight.
3. Make your hangers: Have lengths of 1/16” wire rope cut to length at the hardware store. I used 6’ lengths. Bend brass corner braces to form the rail hooks. If you want to avoid the bending process, substitute larger “S” hooks. The brass hooks I fashioned hang close to the wall, a plus.
Thread an aluminum grommet onto the wire, run it through the bottom of your rail hook and back through the grommet to form a small loop. A couple taps of a heavy hammer will set the grommet. Just watch your fingers!
4. Make your art hooks: Take the copper terminal lugs and turn around the tabs so they will pinch the wire rope tightly when the set screw is tightened. Thread onto the wire. You’ll notice the tabs have a hole where you could use an “S” hook. I simply bent the tab to form a hook using two sets of pliers.
5. Place the finished hangers onto the rail:
6. Hang the art: Hang and adjust the terminal lugs as needed.
Two items of note: For a bit more security, attach your art to the hook by running a zip tie around the hanging wire on the frame and the wire rope. To hide excess wire rope, loop wire until it is in back of the artwork and secure with blue painters tape, which will keep sticky residue from accumulating on the wire.
This system is in Coffeeberries, a Londonderry NH coffee shop that has just expanded. I’m curating artworks through a program we’ve created to give local high school students real-life experience as established artists. Their works are for sale with all proceeds going to the students. Also pictured here are a couple pieces by artist Michael James Toomy, a supporter of the program. The long term mission is to partner small businesses with artists, increase exposure for all and fill the community with art!
This post is in no way meant to discourage you from buying a professional gallery hanging system. You do get what you pay for: a quality, innovative way to hang art securely and quickly. I recommend that if you want to hang more than a couple dozen pieces, you’ll want to go pro. Someday, I hope to do the same.
*****
Guest author Andy Mack Jr. writes and consults for NH Arts, Culture & Business. His subject matter runs from New Hampshire life, to local business, marketing, and angling. He is passionate about content, art, music, food and local culture.
http://www.andymackjr.com/
Student art program http://www.visitlondonderry.com/arts-entertainment/student-art
Michael James Toomy http://www.londonderryfineart.com/












Thank You so much for this!! I live in Bermuda and I would have had to order a gallery system online which would have been so expensive after adding in shipping and duty. But with the above I can easily go to a hardware store and buy these items to do it myself! Thank You!!
Hi Vanessa, it’s fun to see you here again. I’m so glad you can use this tip! Let me know how it works for you.
Lori
Lori,just wanna say-this definitely looks like a cheap and super effective way of hanging some fine art,not letting it get trashed.
Always a very informative blog,keep up the good work.
Thanks for the great feedback!
Lori
Thank you so much Lori! I am an artist showing at a local bakery here in So Cal, and they aren’t happy about all the nail holes in their wall, so I am going ahead with your DIY project.
I am very confused about the terminal lug part, though and wonder if you can help:
You wrote: “Take the copper terminal lugs and turn around the tabs so they will pinch the wire rope tightly when the set screw is tightened.” What tabs, and how do I turn them around? With pliers? Is this shown in your photos? (They appear to look the same as when they were in the package…)
Also, I am confused about how to actually hang the painting onto the terminal lug :hook”. I don’t see anything to hook them too in your photos. What am I missing?
Thanks in advance for your time and for sharing this valuable information. Great website!
- Nancy
Great news Nancy! I am so happy this post is useful to you.
I will contact the guest author with you question and will have him reply. Thanks for your patience!
Good luck,
Lori
Doh! My apologies — I did not notice the “guest author” at the bottom. (I wondered how you had a show in NH, after reading your bio….) Sorry about that.
I think I have it all figured out! In case anyone else reading this blog is having trouble, too:
The terminal lugs actually are made up of two different parts, (it helps to actually open the package and take it out!) which you can separate by unscrewing the screw within. Then you just flip over the “tab” (the strip) without taking it out of the “square part of the lug. Then insert your wire, screw the screw back in super tight.
I haven’t yet tried to bent the whole “tab” with pliers, but by enlarging the photo in your blog, I now see that the author has straightened the tab (i.e. taken the “L” shape out of the tab), and then bent the end of it into a “V” to make the hook upon which to set your painting wire.
Thanks again, Lori AND ANDY! This is really ingenious – I don’t know HOW you figured this out, but I am truly impressed.
Thank you!!! I was able to apply many of your tips to set up a gallery setting on propanels. Saved my about $150!
Hello Michelle! Glad this post was helpful to you. I’d love to see photos!
Lori